A fresh format and a dynamic fusion of styles featuring route setters from Japan and Singapore! Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, we welcome you to join us in this competition and embark on a journey of self improvement and self discovery.
A fresh format and a dynamic fusion of styles featuring route setters from Japan and Singapore! Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, we welcome you to join us in this competition and embark on a journey of self improvement and self discovery.
THE FINAL EVALUATION – RESULTS
THE CLASSIFICATION – RESULTS
UN:BLOC 2024 – RIC SCALE
Uncover your strengths & weaknesses! Find out how you fared in terms of Risk, Intensity & Complexity on The Classification & Final Evaluation routes.
THE CLASSIFICATION
🗓️ 16 March 2024
📍 Depot Heights
⏰ Choose your timeslot
16 March: 10am-11.15am / 11.30am-12.45pm / 1pm-2.15pm / 2.30pm-3.45pm / 4pm-5.15pm / 5.30pm-6.45pm
20 March: 7pm-8:15pm
Round 1: You will attempt a range of routes crafted based on the Risk x Intensity x Complexity scale! Each climb will be closely observed by our route judges. Bring your best and your performance here will determine your classification into one of the five divisions for the Final Evaluation.
THE FINAL EVALUATION
🗓️ 23 March 2024
📍 Kent Ridge
⏰ 10am-4pm | Each timeslot will be 45min. Your assigned timeslot will be determined by the Division you’re classified into.
Round 2: Return for the ultimate showdown! This is where you will compete against climbers in your assigned division, with curated routes tailored to your Division – V / IV / III / II / I. Stand to win prizes when you top your division!
THE FINAL EVALUATION
🗓️ 23 March 2024
📍 Kent Ridge
⏰ 10am-4pm | Each timeslot will be 45min. Your assigned timeslot will be determined by the Division you’re classified into.
Round 2: Return for the ultimate showdown! This is where you will compete against climbers in your assigned division, with curated routes tailored to your Division – V / IV / III / II / I. Stand to win prizes when you top your division!
Public: $38/pax (inclusive of entry)
Unlimited Pass Members: $28/pax
Get an exclusive un:bloc 2024 t-shirt when you sign up!
Introducing our routesetters
Leong Heng
Singapore
fit•bloc Head Setter
Climbing experience: 17 years
Setting experience: 5 years
Nicole
Singapore
fit•bloc Setter
Climbing experience: 9 years
Setting experience: 2 years
Hilman
Singapore
Freelance Setter
Climbing experience: 17 years
Setting experience: 14 years
Obe
Japan
Setting experience: 20 years
DK
Japan
Climbing experience: 20 years
Setting experience: 10 years
Routesetters Interviews
- Could you introduce yourself and give us some insight to your background?
I am Leong Heng from Singapore. I am one of the co-founders of fit • bloc. - What made you become a route setter?
After opening fit • bloc, taking on this role naturally fell on me and I’ve been doing it since. - How long have you been route setting for?
I started setting for competitions during my university days. After a hiatus from it, I opened fit • bloc and I’ve been doing professionally since for the last five years. - Which are the competitions you have set for?
I’ve set for some local and overseas competitions, the most recent one being The North Face Cup 2024 in Japan. - Which route that you set was the most memorable and why?
I’d say the most memorable route was the Ghostline route for #featbloc at Box Right – it was the first time we were using the ghostline holds at fit • bloc. I had a visualisation in mind and was delighted to see it come to life. It’s not always easy to realise a idea in mind, but for that route, I managed to do it. - Give us some insights to your thought process when coming up with a route.
I usually don’t approach setting with an idea fixed in mind. I like to take holds I haven’t used in a long while. From there, it inspires me to create a movement or desired emotion I want climbers to feel from it. - What advice would you give to those who are currently facing difficulties in completing specific levels of bouldering routes, to help them overcome any mental barriers they may be experiencing?
Bouldering is a very free emotion sport. Day to day, you’d always see climbers experiencing different emotions while climbing. It requires an individual to be open minded with themselves. Mental barriers are intrinsic so it’s important to be open to learning, failing and accpeting new concepts and ideas to discover more in climbing. - What motivated you to create un:bloc?
un:bloc is about education. I feel like there’s a disconnect between what setters want climbers to explore and what climbers understand about the routes. I’ve been searching for an avenue for this to happen. un:bloc serves as an exploration to try and find that connection; to allow people to understand themselves through climbing and push their boundaries. There are two types of education. Soft education – learning through classes and guided sessions. Hard education – competitions. These two forms of education helps a climber to be more well-rounded, learn to climb under pressure and continuously uncover their potential.
- Could you introduce yourself and give us some insight to your background?
My name is Nicole and I was born in Singapore. I’m allergic to bread. - What made you become a route setter?
I would say it was a natural progression from climbing and being interested in movement. I used to have many injuries and spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to have a stronger foundation. Route-setting turned out to be a pretty good way to rehab and get stronger by moving around all the time and exploring and creating movements that are available to myself and the people around me. - How long have you been route setting for?
A little over 2 years, coming to 3 this July. - Which are the competitions you have set for?
I’m still quite new and learning when it comes to competition setting. So far I’ve set in Climbone Sunway Velocity in 2023. - Which route that you set was the most memorable and why?
Many good and bad ones, but two good ones were the fit • bloc anniversary buddy climbs at box and cave. Laughing about the funny beta with everyone who was helping to test was probably the most fun I’ve had while setting, and seeing others trying and having fun during the event was something that I won’t forget. - Give us some insights to your thought process when coming up with a route.
Some days I have a move in mind and want to try to execute it and other days it’s just free flow depending on the wall and the holds and my mood. - What advice would you give to those who are currently facing difficulties in completing specific levels of bouldering routes, to help them overcome any mental barriers they may be experiencing?
I think it’s different for everyone and it’s to each their own to find out how to break free from being stuck, both physically and mentally. One of things that helped me when I was injured and stuck was re-building my foundation and re-learning my movements. I think it’s important to not be glued to one way of thinking or climbing. Look outside of yourself and as Bruce Lee said, absorb what is useful, discard what is useless and add what is specifically your own.
- Could you introduce yourself and give us some insight to your background?
Hilman from Singapore. I have 2 fully torn ligaments on my right ankle but slab climbs are still my favourite. - What made you become a route setter?
I started the sport at 17 and all I wanted to do was nothing but everything that has got to do with the sport. Route setting became a platform for me to express how I view the sport and being able to share that with everyone else gives me joy. - How long have you been route setting for?
I’ve been setting professionally for 14 years. - Which are the competitions you have set for?
I’ve set plenty of competitions both internationally and locally. But my biggest competition yet would be the World Youth Championship and Lead World Cup. - Which route that you set was the most memorable and why?
It was an easy problem that is about 3 bar in FB I set many years back and received a lot of feedback by experienced and newer climbers that it was fun and enjoyable to climb. This really inspired me to spend more time looking into the details of all the easy climbs I’ve set.
- Give us some insights to your thought process when coming up with a route.
I mainly work around what emotions would the climb or move brings out for the climbers and spectators. - What advice would you give to those who are currently facing difficulties in completing specific levels of bouldering routes, to help them overcome any mental barriers they may be experiencing?
Master your basics! Be curious on why the technique you applied works and how it worked out. Not everyday has to be a 100% try hard day. Dedicate some time stepping down the level of intensity and work on the finer details of how you move on the wall.
- Could you introduce yourself and give us some insight to your background?
I am Masatoshi Sugita (aka OBE) from Japan(Saitama prefecture). My nickname is OBE. This comes from the famous USA climber Obe Carrion. That’s because Obe Carrion has thick forearms, and I also have thick forearms, so we look similar. - What made you become a route setter?
When I started climbing, there were no route setters like there are now, so I created my own training route and started working as a setter. - How long have you been route setting for?
I started routesetting seriously 20 years ago. After I started working at PUMP, I learned how to do commercial sets.
- Which are the competitions you have set for?
TNFC since 2011～, Boulderactive, National Competition (BJC/LJC andMore), Asian Championship, WCB Vail/WCL Inzai/WCS Hachioji - Which route that you set was the most memorable and why?
This is a very difficult question. I remember that each route was set with a goal in mind, so it all has a story behind it.
- Give us some insights to your thought process when coming up with a route.
This is also very difficult to put into words. For example, sometimes I have a move in mind and I’d look for the handholds suitable for it or manipulate the wall angles to achieve the desired outcome. When crafting routes, think about the challenge first.
- What advice would you give to those who are currently facing difficulties in completing specific levels of bouldering routes, to help them overcome any mental barriers they may be experiencing?
The reasons for slow progress are different for each person, but it may be a good idea to have a goal that goes beyond the task in front of you. For example, imagine a challenge at a crag you would like to visit, or participating in a competition. I think it’s good to give yourself some stimulation so you don’t get stuck in a rut.
- Could you introduce yourself and give us some insight to your background?
I am Daisuke Kasahara from Nagano, Japan. I enjoy climbing and playing pokemon. - What made you become a route setter?
I was working at a climbing gym, so I started it as part of my job. - How long have you been route setting for?
10 years
- Which are the competitions you have set for?
2017 Boulder World Cup, 2022 Boulder Japan Cup, 2023 Japan Lead Youth Cup - Which route that you set was the most memorable and why?
This is the second route of the 2016 BJC final. Because no one could do the route, I strongly believed that this route was for the sake of the competitors and the audience.
- Give us some insights to your thought process when coming up with a route.
First, I’d think about who the route is set for and how long they’d spend figuring it out. I’d then consider whether it’s a move that is suited for them and adjust it according to what their climbing grade may be.
- What advice would you give to those who are currently facing difficulties in completing specific levels of bouldering routes, to help them overcome any mental barriers they may be experiencing?
If you’re struggling with climbing, try to climb as many routes as possible. I feel like it takes more than half a year to reach the next level. You have to let your body get used to the intensity and movement to see progress. Solid power is born from a strong foundation.
FAQs
Does the registration fee include entry passes for both days?
Yes, it’s inclusive of the gym entry passes for 16 and 23 March 2024.
What are the timings for each round?
Round 1: The Classification – you will have 1h 15min to attempt all the routes.
Date: 16 March 2024
Venue: Depot Heights
Here the available time slots to choose from: 10am-11.15am / 11.30am-12.45pm / 1pm-2.15pm / 2.30pm-3.45pm / 4pm-5.15pm / 5.30pm-6.45pm (subject to availability)
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Round 2: The Final Evaluation – you will have 45 minutes to attempt the routes designated for your assigned Division.
Date: 23 March 2024
Venue: Kent Ridge
Round 2 will run from 10am-4pm. Your timeslot will be dependent on the Division you’re classified into.
Does the time slot include warm up time?
No, the time slot doesn’t include warm up time so please arrive early if you’d like to warm up before you start.
Are there any age restrictions to join?
The minimum age is 8 years old and above, but all children below 12 will need to be accompanied by an adult.
What are the divisions and how are we going to be classified?
You will be assigned into Division V / IV / III / II / I, depending on your performance at The Classification. The routes at The Classification will include a range across the Risk x Intensity x Complexity scale, from easiest to hardest.
Your performance here will also provide us with an insight into your strengths and weaknesses.
Do I have to climb a minimum number of routes in The Classification round?
You will need to attempt a minimum of 10 routes.
How many attempts are allowed for each route?
There is no limitation to the number of attempts but your attempts to complete a route will affect your ranking in the division.
When will I get to know which division I’m in for the final evaluation?
Results will be tabulated and you will be notified of your division 2-3 working days later.
May I warm up at Kent Ridge before heading to Depot Heights for The Classification?
Yes, you may but you’ll have to sort out your own transport.
Can I continue climbing at Depot Heights or Kent Ridge after my slot?
Yes. On 16 March, you may continue climbing at Depot Heights when the gym reopens at 7pm or you could also head to Kent Ridge for your climbs after completing your slot. There will no extra charges involved.
Are spectators allowed?
Yes, Depot Heights will be closed for regular climbs during the competition hours on 16 March, but you’re welcome to come and watch The Classification round! However, in order to ensure a smooth flow, we will be doing crowd control where needed.
Am I allowed to volunteer if I'm also participating in the competition?
Yes, you may still opt to volunteer. Volunteers are entitled to 1 complimentary fit • bloc single entry pass for every two timeslots. Please submit your interest here.